It's a rattle can job with Duplicolor Perfect Match... it's basically high quality auto paint pro's spray with their fancy HVLP guns but loaded in 8oz aerosol cans with nice spray nozzles that lay paint down evenly.
I use the rattle can to show how easy it can be to paint well with minimal resources, room, and supplies.
-Matt Behning
(Stillwater, MN)
So here's the tank... basically painted with thick outdoor rustolium crap.
Probably the worst paint job ever. Therefore it needs to be stripped off instead of sanded down... only do this on metal parts. never plastic or fiber glass etc.
Put the paint stripper on thick
A paint scrapper like this seems to work the best
It may take a few applications of stripper
Used a wire wheel on the detailed areas
A second coating (of three)
So that's all the crap that came off with the second treatment
Not once, Not Twice, But Three times I had to strip the paint off.
After the 3rd strip you can sand with 80 grit. Don't sand in circles. Sand side to side and up and down.
After an hour or so of sanding I was done sanding and ready for thin application of bondo.
For big dents you need bondo (but don't do more than 1/8" thick) otherwise for less than 1/8" you can use glazing putty. Wipe it off with alcohol first.
Put a marble size dab of putty on the plastic blade and drag it over the low spot
Make sure to make as few passes as possible because it drys fast and will start to clump
Use a block and I like 180 grit to sand down each application. the putty drys/cures in 10 minutes or so.
Sand with the grade of the flat area... as flat as possible.
The dark areas are low spots. Use multiple series of thin coats rather than caking it on. Wipe with alcohol between applications.
Use a metal putty knife to clean off the applicator after each run
These spots took 6 series of putty and block sanding to get it right. Very thin coats dry fast so the work doesn't have to stop if you are alternating between sites.
Filler primer can take care of scratches
after five hours of work the gas tank is ready for primer. |
Lay the first coat on thin after wiping it down with alcohol first.
As you can see the first coat is so thin you can see through it.
After you get a few coats you're ready to sand with 400 grit. Only use as much as you need. Some areas need more than others.
I like 400 because it cuts fast dry yet doesn't leave deep scratches
These block sanders are nice. the holes help prevent clogging of the sand paper
They're Norton brand you can get them at any car paint supplier
Going to the metal a little is okay
All the sand paper used to sand just the first coat of primer |
This amount of sand paper is about one big sheet's worth |
Ready for more primer now. Good idea to tape off the gas cap;) |
I used alternating coats of red and gray in order to see the progress of sanding |
Before painting clean the tank with a clean cloth damp with alcohol |
Primer the entire tank with brown sandable to provide a base reference when sanding the gray that'll go over the top of this layer. |
When you hit the colored primer under you know you have gone far enough |
Finish building up the areas that need primer work |
Use the sanding methods described earlier to prepare the tank for a final coat of primer. |
For the best results stick with the same brand paint. |
Got the gray duplicolor primer on since my paint and clear is duplicolor too. |
sand the entire tank with the brand name primer (not that plastikote is bad) |
After sanding with 600 and wiping it down |
Dupli-Color perfect match |
If you get a run in the pain it's an easy fix by wet sanding with 1,000 grit. |
The paint spatter sanded out... if it wasn't for that you can go right to clear coat |
I put 5 layers of Dupli-color perfect match clear coat on the gas tank |
Lots of painters call this done... not me. |
But the "egg shell" texture/look of the clear coat is hideous! |
Use 1,000 then 2,000 grit wet sanding |
before and during wet sanding |
Here's a close up on the clear coat that needs the entire tank to look like this little area |
Turtle wax. Coarse, medium, and final stage polish |
First stage of rubbing compound is finished |
Close up after the first stage of heavy compound finished |
first stage and second stage of polishing the clear coat |
After the 3rd stage of hand buffing the clear coat |
CBR 954 gas tank final |
Amazing rattle can job |
-Matt Behning
(Stillwater, MN)
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