HOW TO: CBR 929 Factory Pro Shift Kit Install w/ Clutch and Tranny Assessment

I've had my Factory Pro Evo Shift kit for over a year now and I love it! No more missed shifts and I have a more confident feel with each shift... much more crisp and a better feel.

This doesn't have every single tiny step. However it does show the basic idea and you should use the bike manual for exact torque specs etc. 

I paid $190 directly from factory pro FactoryPro Shift Kits, detent arm

This kit has the same part number as the CBR F3/F4/F4i/600rr/900rr, and 929rr... so it's likely the same how to write up for you no matter what sport bike you have.

For modern bikes 2005+ it appears factory learned to improve one or two of the parts... ie: for a new GSX-R it says "you only need the star" and that is $140 on the site. 

For those with bikes that sell all three parts: the spring, arm, and star... BUY ALL THREE!

Or that's my opinion... it may cost more... but after Much review on forums the overwhelming consensus is to get all three if offered or be prepared to be unimpressed until all three parts are used (if offered).

In fact, I didn't think the factory pro spring was strong enough... Maybe I got a strong shift foot.. so I doubled up the stock spring AND the factory pro spring and loved the increased resistance (about X2).

Don't take my word for it... search around... some people out there might think the factory pro spring is to tough.

-Matt Behning (Stillwater, MN)

Take the cage and right side plastics off.

Drain the oil

change filter (don't get oil on front tire)

unplug the red transmission wire that comes out of the right side engine cover

Remove the case cover bolts, undo to clutch cable, and carefully pull the case cover away.

This is what the inside of the cover looks like, you have to rotate the clutch engagement rod (after you disconnect the clutch cable) so the engine case can come off

Here's the inside of the clutch cover...you have to rotate the clutch engagement rod (after you disconnect the clutch cable) so the engine case can come off. put it in a large plastic bag after you use a razor to peel off the left over gasket... you don't want dirt in the inside of the cover

Remove the clutch bolts and remove the old gasket

Stack them in order as they come out... not bad for 20,000 miles:)

 Measure each of the clutch fiber discs... mine are within spec here

 Now measure the clutch plates they were spot on. Also look for warpage, wear burns, or other nasty signs of clutch plate wear.

 Zip tie it all together to keep the order straight and if you aren't doing the job in one day than put it submerged in the synthetic oil you use in your bike in the bag

See the service limit of 47mm for the clutch spring? This factory spring that has seen 20,000 miles is measuring in at 43mm or so.

The old springs were all level 

 The new clutch springs I bought for the 929 were 10% stiffer and I really like the increased clutch feel with this move.

 To get the Clutch inner housing out of the out clutch basket you need to get the 30mm clutch nut off to do that you need a "clutch center holder" which you can make yourself.

 Before you remove the nut unstake the washer from the nut

 To make a clutch center holder for your motorcycle make a template out of cardboard or something and make sure your 30mm socket can fit in the middle.

 I made mine from scrap steel... you could maybe get away with a 1/4 inch or so thick piece of hard wood instead (like oak)

 Keep your bike in neutral so you don't ruin your transmission and press the rear brake and undo the 30mm nut... preferable and more easy is to do this with an impact tool.

 Keep everything in order or else you'll ruin the basket and burn up the clutch fibers and plates.

 When the clutch center is out you can slide the basket out

Here is a view into the CBR 929 engine and where to change the shift star, arm and spring.

When re installing the clutch basket make sure it seats with the nubs on the collar with the chain that runs the oil pump below. 

Here's the oil pump and sprocket. Put a rag in this hole so you don't drop anything into the oil pan.

 see next step.

 You can pull the shift shaft assembly enough to rotates it away to undo the retaining bolt for the drum and the bolt that holds the shift arm and the spring

To get the shift shaft out you have to go to the other side of the bike (left side) and remove the bolt and clip holding the shaft steady (top bolt) and remove the foot shifter off the rod (lower bolt)... the shifting linkage and assembly will pull out the rest of the way on the right side of the bike.

If you can't get the shift star off with the drum in the motorcycle you'll have to take out the drum. To get the shift drum out pull the shift fork shaft out... the forks will drop into the oil pan you will later remove.

 So here's a shift fork lifted up after it fell in the pan:)

 Here's the Factor Pro Shift Star Kit. "SHFT-EVO-H21" "CBR EVO Star kit"
it's the same parts in the F3/F4/F4i/600rr/900rr, and 929rr

 Don't use the cork gasket or whatever this is... RTV works better IMO

 The new shift spring is stronger, the new shift arm has roller bearings and rolls better over the better shift star with lower lobes. This how to is basically how all sport bikes will have their shift kit installed. Sort of like a universal how to install a shift kit DIY project.

 With the drum out of the bike

 This is how I got the seized allan bolt out of the shift drum carefully

 Next took the oil pan off and this is a picture up into the transmission of the CBR 929 from under the motorcycle.

 Here's everything out of the shift assembly area.

Here's a picture of the new shift star on the shifter drum and the old shift star resting on top.

 Another view

 Check the shift forks for wear... it's usually very obvious if they're worn though. Mine were great.

 Here's the left shift fork

 center shift fork

 right shift fork

 They have the initial cast on the sides so that's good.

 Take the shift fork shaft and roll it along a flat surface to see if it's bent at all... also measure it.

Here's how the shifting assembly generally rests inside the motorcycle engine

 Reinstalling it all is simply the reverse of taking it out. The parts only go in one way so that's good. Before you put all the covers and such back on make sure you shift through the gears up and down.

 Here's a shot from under the bike looking up... obviously don't forget to put the oil pickup back on (center)

 Here's what it looks like you can see I used both the old and new spring because I like the increased crisp and confident feel when shifting... no missed shifts with this set up if you have a good foot... it's been more like another 12,000 miles and the set up has worked great since.

If you want to look at the health of your transmission gears look at the "dogs" of the transmission gears... this is universal for all motorcycle transmissions with shift forks etc.


Best of luck!

-Matt Behning
www.fb.com/929and954